London calling: Fashion Week opens in style

The capital's AW12 Fashion Week gets underway

Ahead of us is a week of the newest up and comers, the most rebellious designers and the coolest fash packs. Ready those cameras...

Commencing the day was Antoni & Alison. The designer duo presented a collection that they quoted as being “... a dream since (they) met at Central St Martins”. An insane mix of prints were layered onto simple, flat silk dresses. Textures including cardboard, cellophane, stickers, feathers, feathers and even felt tip pen scribbles were digitally printed onto the square dresses. These pieces of art were allowed to speak for themselves as the models sported cropped 'dos, plain black stilettos and minimal make up. Digital prints were a strong trend at the S/S12 LFW and appear to be staying strong through A/W12.



Up next was Corrie Nielsen with a collection so dramatic that Mr McQueen himself would've been proud of. A strong Scottish theme led the show, with rich red tartans sculpting the models' bodies, and swathes of jet voile encapsulating the pieces. Black net head pieces with pheasant feathers exaggerated the Celtic feel, and the final outfits of voluminous taffeta gowns with sculpted hips and gathered chiffon bodices created a modern play on traditional Highland wares.

[Related story: The must-see shows at London Fashion Week]

Bora Aksu took to the runway with a show inspired by Eastern European tradition. Knitted knee length dresses with baroque elements formed a cosy looking collection, and the matching oversized head scarves created a feeling reminiscent of post war Ukraine. The classic folk music added to the atmosphere, but on trend rose gold metallic elements cut through the tradition and prevented the show from becoming too cliché.

 


In the breathtaking ballroom over at The Savoy, Maria Grachvogel presented a jaw dropping collection of bias cut silk gowns in muted sage and chestnut, with flowing, natural prints in fiery yellows and rusts. The electro swing soundtrack summed up the show to perfection. Vintage with a modern wearability. An accessory trend we've seen everywhere is cross-body jewellery, and Grachvogel's gold chains studded with warm gems were the most elegant we've seen.

Back at Somerset House Felder Felder presented their most recent collection of psychedelic prints reminiscent of the current season's trend, but in a wintry palette. Combined with corset belts printed to match the garments, the pieces became intricate pieces of art. Trimmed fur accents and feathered skirts kept the show on trend and gave a wearability that was otherwise lacking in the unique collection.

[Related story: New York Fashion Week full round up]

PPQ served a minimalist show that mirrored the New York shows more than their London counterpart. Oversized coats belted in wide leather led the show, with velvet pencil dresses and chiffon pieces creating a feminine edge to the collection. A nod to the fetish trend was seen in a black PVC dress, which soon became the gossip highlight of the show, getting all the front row tongues wagging.

 

 


Plaits and Spanish hats led the theme at Zoe Jordan's show, with lace and wool combinations making for a wearable and cosy collection. With Poppy Delevingne closing the show in a gorgeous grey silk dress, this will undoubtedly become one of the more popular shows of LFW.

Basso & Brooke stunned the crowd in the decadent Goldsmiths Hall with their signature digital prints (fast becoming a key trend to LFW AW12). Houndstooth, tweed, checks and geometric shapes formed a chaotic yet beautiful collage, all printed onto pyjama-like trousers and loose silk shirts. The two designers also gave us the most beautiful make up looks of the day, with deep red lips lined in black creating a dark look perfect for the colder season. This is a trend we expect to see all over the runways for the rest of the week.

With LFW well under way, we can only imagine what's to come over the next five days...