REVIEW: Feversham Arms Hotel and Verbena Spa

The name conjures images of a Dickensian coach stop but Feversham Arms is an unexpected rustic gem that mixes traditional Yorkshire countryside with modern convenience in everything from décor to cuisine.

Tucked away on a side street near the marketplace in the North Yorkshire town of Helmsley, 48 miles from the cathedral city of York, Feversham is a surprisingly large old building, with a modern extension that includes many of its suites.

The roomy reception sits between the oldest parts of the building – which began life as a pub – and the modern extension looks out over a central courtyard that houses the heated outdoor pool (which we swam in even in the Yorkshire winter, oh yes!).

There are also now other, newer conveniences that would have confused Dickens - the library holds several computers and wi-fi is available throughout.

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The Verbena Spa

Adjoined to the hotel is the Verbena Spa, which has a mix of Elemis and signature treatments on offer including the Anne Semonin Collection, plus an outdoor hot tub and The Heat Experience.

This includes the saunarium, aromatherapy room, salt vapour room, monsoon shower, ice cave and foot spas.

Even without any treatments, an entire weekend away could be spent in the calming atmosphere of the spa. It’s small and friendly, especially when compared to more intimidating larger spas. Staff are happy to talk you through treatments and create the perfect experience for you.

The Heat Experience is a nice touch, with everything you’d expect from a spa plus a salt vapour room, which is ideal for clearing out the airways and refreshing you from the inside. I spent hours wandering between the hot rooms, the hot tub, the foot baths and the ice cave (which is really more of an ice bowl), giving my skin a real workout and getting the blood flowing.

I opted for the Elemis Me Time treatment, which is perfect if you’re not sure what you’ll want on the day as it can be created around the way you feel when you arrive. For mine, we went for a facial, which was deliciously refreshing and left my skin glowing and feeling supersoft.

The use of trusted and well-known Elemis products is reassuring, particularly for those of us with sensitive skin, and you’ll be asked about your skin type, any concerns you have and any past reactions or products to avoid.

The thorough questionnaire means you’re unlikely to have the fabled breakout after a treatment and I can attest to the fact that my skin was in much better shape after its treat than before.

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The hotel and practicalities

Getting there is quite an experience – quite literally up hill and down dale. Also, do try and spot the house that recently graced Location, Location, Location.

Helmsley is nigh-on impossible to reach by public transport so you’ll need your own or a hire car if you don’t want to rely on taxis. Once you’re there, however, there’s little need to leave the hotel, and certainly Helmsley, which is packed with boutique shops, traditional tea and cake cafes, as well as bustling market square.

As expected staff are helpful and knowledgeable, though some come across a little stiff if you’re expecting laid-back Yorkshire hospitality.

If you can, splash out on a suite – they’re spacious with deep baths, and you can create your own spa experience with the jug of lovely ‘sheep’s dip’ local lavender bubble bath provided. They also have an outdoor seating area that adjoins or looks over the pool. On a sunny day, you could genuinely mistake it for a Mediterranean setting.

You can also expect a touch-sensitive Bang & Olufson TV, CD and DVD player and a selection of titles in the rooms, as well as a well-stocked video library downstairs, for when the weather’s more, well, English.

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Foodie indulgence
 
Feversham is proud of its food offering, including a marvellous ‘Full Yorkshire’ breakfast that includes a local (and delicious) Helmsley sausage. Depending on the package, guests can expect a contribution towards dinner, but with prices rivalling the finest eateries, this doesn’t go too far and there are no bottles of wine for below £20, so you may want to head out to Helmsley if you’re staying more than a few nights.

The food is seasonal and for the most part local. I enjoyed a fantastic scallop starter at diner, with a very unusual horseradish powder and battered smoked eel – very Great British Menu. Not quite Michelin star standards, though certainly ambitious.

The cheese trolley finale is a definite highlight with a wide variety of cheeses from around the UK and Europe and some innovative wine jellies that elevate the accompaniment beyond your average quince or chutney.

Countryside retreat

We are told on the return journey to York that the cabbie has recently been ferrying around Rupert Everet and Benedict Cumberbatch as yet another period drama has been set in the picturesque surroundings – which gives you an idea of what to expect from the countryside.

And if you can drag yourself from the hotel (and particularly the spa) there is plenty of natural scenery to take in, as well as historic sites and cities nearby. Walking and hunting are also popular in the local area.

Though excellent deals are available, it’s worth checking what is and isn’t included in your chosen package so you can budget. Extra charges for unique services are available, including for breakfast delivered to your room £10 per person and use of the hot tub and other spa areas if you haven’t booked a treatment. If you find the bar prohibitively expensive, there are slightly more rough and ready pubs in Helmsley, serving food and drink at more Yorkshire prices.

We emerged from Feversham after a weekend of relaxing, swimming and indulging - an unexpectedly cosy haven in North Yorkshire in the colder months of the year. In the summer the place is glorious and the courtyard an absolute suntrap.

It’s also a good stopping off point to head further into the Moors or to visit after a day or two enjoying the history and sights of York.

Stays at the Faversham arms start at £260 for dinner, bed and breakfast per room based on two adults sharing. See fevershamarmshotel.com for details.

We travelled to York by rail on East Coast from London King’s Cross. Customers travelling First Class can enjoy East Coast’s complimentary food and drinks offer plus unlimited Wi-Fi. Advanced return fares, booked online at www.eastcoast.co.uk: start from £26 Standard Class or £79 First Class. We continued to Helmsley by car.