Learning To Ski: Being A Beginner Skier in La Plagne

I had no idea what to expect when I landed in Geneva with its ice-cold air and miles of snow-capped mountains.

I’d never been skiing, I’d never really been fussed about going skiing and I certainly didn’t know what I was letting myself in for when I agreed to go skiing.

Growing up I’d always thought that ski trips were totally out of my reach so I hadn’t even thought about whether I’d be any good on two skis.

I’d always thought I was just be one of those lazy beach people. Give me a pool, a good book on my Kindle and some factor 30 and I’m set. Freezing fingers, uncomfortable boots and layers of thermals did not sound like my cup of tea.

Then I set foot in La Plagne.

Set in Paradiski (yes, that’s its real name), in the French alps, it’s a mere two hours drive from Geneva and perfect for newbie skiers like me.

And I certainly jumped head first into it!

Learning To Ski

I’d borrowed my friend’s ski kit for my trip so looking in the mirror for my first morning of skiing was something of a shock. I had never worn so many layers in my life. The Michelin man had nothing on me.

Would I even be able to move? How do I go to the loo when my hands are absolutely FREEZING? And most importantly, where on Earth do I keep my iPhone to take selfies on the slopes like Kim Kardashian?  

Luckily, my questions were answered pretty sharp-ish, starting with the fact that you CAN walk in head-to-toe ski-gear, even if you look like a moon-man. And you can keep your iPhone in the inside pocket of your ski jacket, so I needn’t have worried about Facebook bragging (although getting 3G or phone reception is another matter).

I was met in La Plagne’s ‘Cool Ski Zone’ by my instructor Laurent, from the Oxygene Ski School. The Cool Ski Zone is roped-off for children and beginners to practise their skills without fearing that the advanced skiers and snowboarders are going to knock you straight onto your bum (if you aren’t head-first in the snow already).

I was in a group with two others, Paul and Gemma, who fortunately had as little ski knowledge as me. It was comforting to know that in some way, we were all in it together – three grown adults, togged up in ridiculous clothes, holding poles and standing on planks. We were the very definition of ‘all the gear, no idea’.

Laurent started by explaining to us how to get in and out of the skis. It might sound simple but for someone who’s never set foot in a ski (quite literally), it was a bit of a faff.

And then there’s the issue of trying to stand up in the skis, and then walking in them, before you can even get started on trying to ski in them.

But the most important thing I picked up early on is that it’s all about confidence. Go for it, believe in yourself and be whizzing down the red slopes in no time (and that’s a good thing, honest).

After I’d mastered the art of moving in my skis, I walked 50 metres or so up a very shallow slope before bending my knees, pointing my skis outwards to control my speed and just kind of going for it, throwing myself down the slopes.

Yes, I went super-slow and I fell on my bum a couple of times but in my mind, it just gave me something to improve on for my next attempt. I kept setting myself little challenges to motivate myself. The first one was something like, ‘you will ski to the bottom of this slope without falling over.’

Plus, once you’ve fallen over a couple of times you realise it doesn’t actually hurt, which is a reassuring boost to the confidence.

Within a couple of hours, I’d advanced to ‘you will ski down this even steeper slope, interweave these cones that your instructor has very kindly placed in front of you and you will NOT FALL OVER.’

By giving myself little steps to work towards, it meant I always achieved something. It might have been baby steps but it really helped me to focus.

If I fell over, I just got up and tried again. The worst thing to do is say to yourself, ‘I can’t do this.’ Because funnily enough, if you say you can’t do it, you probably won’t be able to do it.

It obviously helped that I was only being taught in a group of three so my training was quite focused and intimate. In my opinion, if you can afford to get single or small-group tuition for the first day at least, it’s definitely worth it just to master the basics.

Mastering My Technique

Similarly to sports such as running and swimming, once you’ve mastered the basics of skiing, it’s relatively easy to improve - quickly.

And being one of those people that wants to know everything about everything, I soon wanted to know how to get better, how to go faster and how to go further.

My instructor Laurent was a massive help. He pushed me to go outside of my comfort zone and kept challenging me to try something new.

Once I’d learnt how to start, stop and move side-to-side, he was confident taking me out of the Cool Ski Zone and onto the runs. He would tell me to ski down to a lift, independently, before meeting me at the bottom. He would encourage me to jump on and off a ski lift on my own.

Before long, I was racing down the green ski runs (pistes with very gentle gradients for first-time skiers) and moving swiftly onto the blue (for improvers, able to snowplough but not necessarily parallel ski).

I found that the green ski runs were very similar to the beginner zones but they were just longer, allowing you to pick up speed and zoom down.

The blue ski slopes were a challenge – but much more exhilarating. There’s something about being a little bit scared that gives you butterflies inside. It’s a good kind of scary though – you know you’re safe, but it’s something you haven’t done before so you’re not going to be immediately confident.

So did I find out I’m a skier? Well I didn’t stop smiling from the moment I made it down my first run without falling over to when I sadly hung up my skis for the final time on my trip. Skiing’s a tricky skill - difficult to get going but once you’ve mastered it, you can’t beat that feeling.

Skiing can be hard work – it’s a physical activity and you will ache off the slopes (though that’s what the soothing hot chocolate and après ski drinks are for!). But you can’t help giving it your all – the rush of getting it right is so exhilarating. And you don’t want to be sitting on the plane home thinking, ‘I could have tried harder.’

And if you get bitten by the skiing bug you’ll be saving up for your pennies for a return trip pronto!

What To Do If You Hate Skiing

Of course like any sport, skiing isn’t for absolutely everyone. It is hard work and can be frustrating when you don’t pick it up quickly. But if after a few days you're not even picking it up slowly fear not – there are other things to do in the alps other than fall over on the snow.

If you really do want to get up the slopes but are simply struggling with learning how to ski, I’d really recommend taxi-skiing. You’re essentially locked into a chair on top of a pair of skis while a more experienced instructor takes you around the slopes.

It was designed for disabled people and the elderly but it’s plenty of fun for beginners too. We got to ski on runs we never would have managed on our own – although going really high up the mountains to go all the way back down again was a little daunting for beginners, even if I was strapped into the cosy sleeping bag-like contraption.

Another fun option is dog sleighing – perfect for new and experienced skiers alike. It is scary at times when you realise your life is in the hands of a mutt – but if you put that to one side and focus on the moment, it is really exciting. Although a word of warning – the husky dogs are quite smelly so make sure you cover your nose on the way round.

There’s also tobogganing, which I personally found quite difficult. I thought it would just be like sledging down a snowy hill, but it was more advanced than that. However if you do get the hang of it, it’s hugely exhilarating – although make sure to wear goggles as you get a LOT of snow in your face on the way down!

Plus you can go for beautiful snowy walks (hire snow shoes to help you get around) or even try cross-country skiing, which is physically demanding but doesn’t have the terror factor of whizzing completely out of control down the mountainside.

The Après-Ski

And of course, if you arrive on the Alps and realise you hate snow too, there’s always the après-ski!

You can make a skiing holiday as relaxing or as active as you want it. Most skiers take a break every couple of hours for a mulled wine, beer or hot chocolate, which I could definitely recommend getting on board with. Skiing works up a serious appetite and you’ll want everything on the menu whatever it is.

In La Plagne, we visited Chalet de la Roche for lunch and I opted for the Plat du Jour, which was pork in a caramel sauce with dauphinoise potatoes. It was delicious and I would definitely suggest dropping in here for a bite to eat.
 

Of course, you can’t take a trip to the Alps without indulging in a certain cheese delicacy - the fondue. It’s cult among ski circles for a reason – and you simply have to try an authentic mountain version. For dinner one night, we had cheese fondue at La Grande Rochette restaurant – but it wasn’t any old restaurant. It was on the top of a mountain and the views were simply stunning.

We arrived by ski lift at around 5pm and watched the sunset over the mountains before tucking into our dinner. It was magical being up there, so detached from the world, with views over the Alps for miles. If there’s one thing you’ll get on a skiing holiday that you don’t get on your typical package holiday, it’s the scenery. The views took my breath away.

Once your limbs are aching and your belly full, take respite in your chalet where you can rest assured you’ll have a good night’s sleep. Intense exercise does tend to knacker you out. We stayed at Le Cocoon, a charming little hotel in La Plagne that had its own Jacuzzi, which we made use of every night to soothe those sore muscles. There’s something incredibly decadent about sitting in a Jacuzzi after a day of skiing – but definitely deserved.

Beginner’s Tips

Skiing is expensive, which is why many people don’t get the chance to try it. The cheapest way to do it is to get a big chalet for 10-12 of you and you all split the price.

You also don’t have to go for just a week or ten days. You can actually book for just two nights, which is the perfect way to get a taste for skiing. It would be too expensive to buy ski gear for two days so try and borrow a friend’s before you commit. Though you could try Matalan or TK Maxx for some value skiwear.

You can also try it out at home first – invest in a few lessons at one of the UK’s snow schools and have a go on real snow to give you a head start before you hit the real mountains.

It’s also cheaper to get a day ski pass for beginners (€25 rather than €45 for a daily pass). That’s because you use less ski runs, so don’t buy more than you have to. It’s also cheaper to ski on a Saturday (€20).

Make sure you bring suitable footwear and don’t assume you’ll be able to wear your ski boots out and about. They’re not the easiest to walk in and are far better strapped to the skis, so you’ll need another pair of boots to get around too. Bring ones with good grip.

And ladies, if you’re like me and keep your hair in a ponytail, invest in a headband as your hat won’t fit under your helmet with a ponytail in it too!

PS. Here’s that selfie I promised you…

Book a trip to La Plagne (+33 (0)4 79 09 79 79; www.la-plagne.com) from €588 / approx. £443 per room, including seven nights’ hotel accommodation with breakfast. Learn to ski with Oxygene Ski (oxygene-ski.com), with group lessons starting from €178/ £134 pp (five mornings), whilst private tuition starts at €52/ £40 pp, per hour. A seven-day ski pass costs €281/ £212 pp. Other activities: Moonlight ski (€80/ £61 pp), Superluge Derby (€25/ £19 pp) and Dog Sledding (€87/ £66 pp), and Sit Ski (€99/ £75 pp). Flights extra – from £70 pp return with EasyJet (London-Geneva).

Sophia travelled to Heathrow with Addison Lee, who have announced their #MillionPoundGiveaway, simply use ’SAVE10’ when booking with the Addison Lee via the app to save £10 on each of your next five journeys.

[6 Top Skiing Hacks]

[Snowboarding and skiing in the UK]