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Copyright © Rex Recently the newspapers have been full of horror stories describing the horrific reactions women have suffered after dyeing their hair at home. However, although we’re reading more reports of dye-related disasters, in reality, the ingredients within the average bottle of hair dye haven’t changed. So what’s going wrong?
Dye disasters
“I do feel that the recent bad press reflects a genuine increase in allergic reactions, but I also think there are a number of factors involved,” says Tracey Taylor, owner of The Tier Hairdressing Salon in Nottingham. “Allergies are on the rise in developed countries, and hair dyes are no exception. Technology has increased the quality of the dye, but also the amount of different chemicals involved - almost any of which can trigger sensitivity reactions. People are also dyeing their hair for longer and at a younger age than ever before. At the other end of the scale, older people are continuing to dye their hair, perhaps to achieve a more youthful appearance. Put simply, more dye means more potential reactions. Also, as people’s bodies change, so will their tolerance to chemicals.”
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In reality, it’s often user error that’s behind a bad reaction, or at least a pre-existing condition that the user isn’t aware of. “The most common causes of reactions are caused when people haven’t had a patch test 48 hours before their colour is applied, broken skin on the scalp and skin conditions such as Eczema and Psoriasis,” says Donna Mitchell, creative director at Bonce Salons. The skin on our scalps is delicate, and can be especially sensitive in winter, when fluctuating temperatures lead to increased cell turnover. Certain changes in lifestyle can also cause a bad reaction. “A reaction can also occur because of a change in medication, pregnancy, or a developed reaction to an ingredient that didn't exist previously, which is why skin tests are crucial,” adds Anita Cox McMillan, Schwarzkopf Colour Ambassador. “A reaction can emerge over time and an ingredient that you were fine with previously can become a problem further down the line.”Do or dye
For this reason, patch tests are essential – even if you’re using a familiar product. “Always do a skin test 24 hours prior to using any hair dye,” advises Anita Cox McMillan. “The best place to patch test is right behind the ear - apply a small spot of colour directly onto the skin, leave for 40 minutes then rinse off. If you have any type of reaction in a 48 hour period, contact your stylist (if your hair was coloured in a salon) or call the manufacturer listed on the box if using home colour.”
But how many of us can honestly say we make a point of reading the blurb that comes with our hair dye? While a patch test can highlight any allergies or sensitivities, some of the ingredients most likely to cause allergic reactions are hard to avoid – especially when we don’t know what to look out for. The good news? The crowded nature of the hair dye market means there’s no shortage of brands designed for those with sensitive skin. “The ingredient most people have had a reaction to is Paraphenylenediamine, or PPD as it's more commonly known,” explains Anita Cox McMillan. “This ingredient can be found in most hair colour products but certain companies - including Schwarzkopf - have created colours without PPD in them.” While some countries – Canada is one – have banned skincare products containing PPD, the standard rule is that if a hair care product contains PPD, there must be a warning informing users that using the product on eyebrows or eyelashes can result in blindness, and that a patch test is essential. Additionally, the dye has to be oxidative — meaning that it’s activated when combined with oxygen — because the gas accelerates the speed at which PPD is broken down, reducing the possibility of allergic reaction.
A sensitive subject
It’s also thought sensitivity to PPD could develop with increased overall use of products containing PPD, specifically skincare products. Recent reports published in America noted that PPD-related reactions to hair dye were especially common in those who had been exposed to PPD after getting a henna tattoo –henna often contains PPD. For these reasons, a thorough read of the ingredients list is a must and it’s also wise to avoid brands you might not have come across in the past. "Wherever possible opt for a professional brand, preferably a reputable company who have a helpline in case anything should go wrong,” suggests Anita.
However, whilst the recent reports of bad reactions have no doubt thrust PPD into the limelight, the chemicals within most brands of hair dye are the same chemicals that have been around for years. In the majority of cases, bad reactions occur when the instructions aren’t followed or patch tests aren’t carried out, although there are always going to be those who react severely to certain products – whether it’s peanuts, hair dye or gluten. Our advice? Read the instructions, do a patch test and don’t do anything stupid – and remember that the average newspaper editor loves nothing more than jumping on the latest, scaremongering bandwagon.
Product suggestions:
NaturVital PPD free Coloursafe Hair Colour £9.99, www.naturvital.co.uk
Daniel Field Organic Hair Dye, £6.99. www.danielfield.com
Tints of Nature Hair Colour £8.99, www.tintsofnature.com
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