Getting to know your skin

The ‘recipe for perfection’ when it comes to achieving clear, healthy, glowing skin is surely one of the best kept secrets in the beauty world.

And no, it’s not air brushing…

In fact getting to know your skin type and its needs is a highly personal thing and also something that can change frequently depending on factors such as age, diet, our hormonal cycle and even what time of year it is. Some seasoned experts say it isn’t even something we should try to put a label on.

The good news is that if you have no clue whether you should be reaching for products for sensitive or oily skin you’re not alone. And with a few simple tricks and tools we can not only all reach those longed-for ‘dewy heights’ but also be a bit kinder to our skin in the process.

‘I’d say only about 10 per cent of us really understand our skin type,’ says professional make-up artist Julia Francis. ‘There are loads of people walking around thinking they may have all kinds of allergies for example, when in fact they’re just sensitive to certain things.

‘Good skin care is also about understanding skin tone and colour – it should be taught in schools!’
In general we think of skin as having five recognised types: dry, sensitive, normal, oily and combination, but in actual fact pigeon-holing yourself isn’t helpful according to dermatology experts.

Star Khechara is a bespoke skincare specialist who has been working in the field for 20 years – ever since creating her own personalised range to cure her eczema. ‘I think where a lot of people fall down is treating these groupings as fixed, when actually they are a snapshot of how our skin is at any one time,’ she explains.

‘Combination skin for example is actually quite normal because some areas of the face are naturally more oily than others. Remember that beauty companies are looking to cash in on you labelling your skin – in some respects it’s a marketing ploy.

‘The best thing is to think of skin condition as a temporary state, and how you can treat or improve it. I believe there should really be one universal skin type, healthy, and for this you need to consider the underlying issues, and be open to adapting your lifestyle. In truth skin is a holistic thing so you need to look at the whole package.’

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Call in the experts

Trying to solve the riddle of our own skin type can be both confusing and conflicting.

‘Self-diagnosis of our skin is based on taking note of how it reacts in different situations – after eating certain foods, what happens in the sun, wind and cold weather and also what it feels like to touch,’ Jules Francis reveals. ‘If you get shiny or dry, itchy or smooth – these are all clues to getting it right.’

So if your skin condition is particularly bad or you’re concerned about it the best answer is usually to consult someone in the know – whether this be a make-up artist, dermatologist or ‘beauty alchemist’ who should all look at the whole package, including your diet and lifestyle.

Other treatments on the market include things such as ‘skin mapping’ which views each area of the face as being connected to a different organ or part of the body – similar to reflexology.

‘The trouble with skin mapping is that it’s rooted in spiritualism rather than science,’ Star Khechara warns. ‘I like the idea of it but personally I’m not sure how effective it actually is.’

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Ring the seasonal changes

The changing seasons can have a huge impact on skin condition and to keep yourself in tip-top shape you need to adapt your care regime accordingly.

Spring – As our bodies begin to recover from the harsh conditions of winter it’s the perfect time for a ‘skin detox.’

‘Up the number of face masks you’re using each week and book yourself in for a facial,’ Star says. ‘You could also try steam treatments and should also up the amount of water you’re drinking and your intake of fruit and vegetables.’

Summer – Better air quality at this time of year means you can go lighter on your skincare regime as a general rule, although remember the all-important sun protection. The good news is that you’re likely to be outside more and more attracted to fresh food and exercise, both great for skin.

Autumn – This is generally a good time of year for skin as you’re starting from a place of health, so keep things simple.

Winter – Skin’s least favourite season. We’re more likely to reach for junk food, more carbohydrates and find it harder to exercise, plus being indoors with the heating on is very dehydrating.

‘Keep skin hydrated by drinking lots and using facial mist sprays,’ Star advises. ‘You also need to use a heavier moisturiser to guard against cold weather and wind which increases skin’s water loss to the air.’

Simple things to try

‘The key to a good skin is a balanced diet, awareness of pollutants and how best to avoid them, no caffeine, nicotine or alcohol and lots of fresh air and good quality filtered water,’ Jules Francis explains.
But seeing as we’re unlikely to completely cut out coffee or that much-needed glass of wine at the end of the day, you could also try a prescriptive facial.

‘One that focuses on lymphatic drainage is excellent as it really boosts and detoxifies the skin,’ Star says. ‘Face masks are also brilliant. You can easily find recipes to make at home online or if buying one try to invest a little in you can in organic products.

‘I highly recommend Neal’s Yard as all their ingredients are of high quality. If you can stretch to even one moisturiser from their range it will make a big difference to your skin.’